FORMULAVEE.ORG

Just checking to see who uses what and which is better.

I am thinking about drilling a hole thru the shifter rod that comes out of the back of the tranny (the hockeystick) and putting a bolt in instead of using the set screw. It just seems like a bolt and locknut would hold better. Any issues?

What do you use on the front spindle... the double lock nuts and plate or the later model collar with the allen screw. I see they make a billet aluminum version too. Is that good enough for racing?

I know that fasteners are open but just wondering what everyone else is using.

Thanks.

The shifter linkage on my Citation is drilled through with a Grade 8 1/4 inch bolt and locknut holding it to the shaft. Hasn't fallen off yet! I've seen lots of Vees with the aluminum spindle nuts. I think they are pretty much the standard thing.

Roger:

Bolting through the shift rod (hockey stick) is fine- just be sure your adjustment is set first!

I'm from the old school therefore the double nut and locking plate work well for me. Others like the aluminum nut with the allen head bolt. Either one is OK.


Dietmar

Roger,

I've used the aluminum clamping nuts on the spindles and they worked fine. I actually have a set I haven't used for 10 years (some of the too many spares I carry!)... I've since replaced them with the old stock steel nuts as part of my overall spindle "package" which includes hardened steel spacers and shims between the inner races of the bearings. these have been discussed on this board a number of times and a kit is available from Mike Palermo I believe. IMHO, that this works even better, providing extra strength to the spindles to prevent cracking and eventual breakage. With this system you torque the spindle nuts fairly tight which the aluminum clamp nuts just wouldn't take.

On the shifter, I use the original tapered set screw. I also safety wire the screw (did I drill the hole? - can't remember now). I modified the shifter adapter by welding an 8mmx1.25 nut onto it so the set screw ends up threaded through both the nut and adapter (which is otherwise too thin walled to hold the screw).

This makes it so an unmodified hockey stick will work without modification and there is no play, ever. I've used the same set-up without problems since I built the car in 1995. I may have to redo it due to the hit it took at the runoffs this year. We'll see.

I use a AN-386 pin for the shifter? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/h ... perpin.php -2 is fine (similar to a 1/4" bolt. Pegasus now sells the correct washers for these pins if you care to be that precise. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... t=3077-002

A 1/4" bolt is fine for our cars, there is a lot of slop in the selector fork and rods so eliminating play in the shifter is impossible. I would try to have the un-threaded portion of the shank extend through the entire assembly or it may eventually wear.

I prefer the aluminum clamp style nuts on my spindles, they are easy to use and easy to adjust the bearing compression. I (and most racers) do not use the spindle supports cendiv does and do not tighten our nuts as firmly.

Steve at Vee Sport 203-778-2337 sells a really trick setup for attaching the shift linkage to the hockey stick. It does require drilling the hockey stick. The set up makes swapping between various transaxles easy and offers additional adjustability.